I’ve worked on and off for INSTORE over the past 15 years, and during that time, I’ve written five books. For my latest, Jewelry’s Shining Stars: The Next Generation: 45 Women Visionaries (ACC Artbooks, End June 2024), Editor-in-Chief Trace Shelton told me: “It will be more fun to hear about the book from your point of view.” I wrote the original Jewelry’s Shining Stars in 2013 based on seeing such talent during my years as Senior Editor for INDESIGN and INSTORE. So now I am following the advice of one of my favorite editors and giving you a sneak peek at the book through this gallery of some of the irrepressible women designers in this new book and their own words about their collections.
Before we launch into the gallery, a little history about the books. Click through to read more.
ALL PHOTOS COPYRIGHTED ©ACC ARTBOOKS AND THE DESIGNERS FEATURED IN THIS ARTICLE.
By Beth bernstein
Ten years ago, I penned the book Jewelry’s Shining Stars. In the introduction, I wrote the following: “I have concentrated on a group of small and independent designers who have made an indelible mark with their signature styles, each distinguishing them from their peers and predecessors. They transcend any specific age group or demographic and speak on an international level, creating their own unique language. Collectively, they have challenged the definition of fine jewelry with their shared vision and are designing for a generation of women who have embraced this new creativity and think of jewelry as an extension of personal style, rather than statements of status.”
I had always planned to write a follow-up book when the timing was right, when I found enough designers who could ignite the same type of passion in me again, who challenged the status quo and who are either emerging or have evolved and expanded their point of view and their style. Jewelry’s Shining Stars: The Next Generation brings together 45 independent women designers who have liberated the way we view jewelry. Hailing from around the globe, they are at different stages of their careers, yet all are influential in crossing the boundaries of art, function and wearability. These formidable women create jewelry as a form of adornment and as a means to empower the wearer with their designs. They have learned techniques in order to bend the rules and break with tradition. Whether they work with their own hands, challenging themselves at the bench, or have chosen artisans to bring their visions to life, they are all innovators in their own right and are helping to form the taste, styles and standards of the self-purchaser, women who have the confidence to buy jewelry for themselves and prefer gifts that connect to the soul and character or relate to a significant time in their lives. With boldness and presence in their work, and a reverence for iconic role models and quality and techniques, these 45 talents are creating today’s collectibles and shaping jewelry’s future.
Beth Hutchens/FounDrae: “I am a collector, creator, curator and designer. My aesthetic encapsulates deep dives into research, hunting through found objects, antiques, and the way all of this comes together to tell FoundRae’s story, so you can tell yours.”
18” medium mixed Belcher necklace story, with medium Reverie Medallion, medium Dream Medallion, and Ruby Forever & Always Pear Medallion.
Jenna Blake: “History is my biggest influence. The best design never goes out of style.”
Technicolor Multi Stone Fringe Necklace in 18K yellow gold, turquoise, emerald, amethyst, citrine, ruby, diamond.
Anna Maccieri Rossi: “Jewelry is an adventure. When I have an ‘illumination,’ I just need to draw it, even if it’s in the sand on the seashore. For me, it is impossible to stop thinking about the chance to see my vision and ideas realized.”
MODEL PHOTO: MARCO ONOFRI
Carpe Diem Lucky 18K yellow gold, hand-painted mother of pearl mosaic and chrysoprase beaded necklace.
Brooke Gregson: “I have been lucky enough to travel all over the world, which has fueled my design process and enabled me to find amazing gemstones, and team up with people who are as passionate as I am.”
Opal Heart Emerald Sapphire Key Necklace with one-of-a-kind Georgian-style bezel with sapphire, emerald and diamond pavé detail in 18K gold.
Alexandra Rossier: “We need jewelry that makes the harshness of every day gentler. My pieces evoke love, abundance and undeniable playfulness for clients who are looking for a little bit of magic and joy to color their souls.”
Fish necklaces with hand-engraved, articulated, enameled eyes. 18K yellow gold, fancy sapphires, amethysts, blue topazes, tsavorites, rubies, diamonds.
Marie Lichtenberg: “Jewelry will always be a passion project. In essence, I’m influenced by whatever makes me feel joy and I go with what is intuitive.”
Love You Locket in 14K yellow gold, garnet, moonstone, multicolor sapphires, tsavorites. Inscription “Love you to the moon and back” adorns faces of locket.
Stephanie Walters Abramow and Mollie Faith Good /Walters Faith: “When we first started Walters Faith, Mollie designed with the four Cs in mind: a customer who is classic, cool, conservative, and contemporary. Today we fill in what’s missing, based on price point, category and novelty.” — Stephanie
Assorted bangles and bracelets in 18K rose gold with diamonds.
MODEL PHOTOS: ANDREW EGAN
ALL PHOTOS COPYRIGHTED ©ACC ARTBOOKS AND THE DESIGNERS FEATURED IN THIS ARTICLE
Eva Fehren: “New York was, has been, and will always be my forever inspiration. The combination of the monolithic architecture, grittiness, and its unique propulsive energy that moves it forward, is exactly the vibe I try and achieve in my jewelry.”
18K blackened white gold and white diamonds rings.
Thea Miller/Dru.: “Jewelry can act as protection or be an invitation for conversation. It can hide one’s insecurities or emphasize one attributes. It has a magic power because it feels good and anything that makes us feel good is powerful.”
Top to bottom: Diamond Claw Ring; Solid Claw Ring; Black Diamond Claw Ring.
Lauren Godfrey/Harwell Godfrey: “My jewelry is maximalist, pattern-heavy, colorful, and bold.”
One-of-a-kind dragonfly pendant in 18K yellow gold, spessartite, rubellite, tourmaline, blue zircon, aqua, diamond.
Brent Neale: “When I’m creating a new collection, it often has specific inspirations and muses.I usually start with a wow piece and then flesh things out from there.”
One-of-a-kind Wildflower Rings in 18K yellow gold with mixed gemstones.
Erica Molinari: “I apprenticed myself. I struggled for many years since I had no formal jewelry education and therefore had a hard, long learning curve. I continue to further my knowledge base with classes and feel more secure about coming into my own, both technically and artistically, while always finding new ways to hone and refine my craft and style.”
Combination charm necklace with vitreous glass enamel hand-painted with callalily; sterling silver double-sided Ornate Lotus Flower with inscription “Embrace all that you are” on the back; “Under the Looking Glass” 18K gold engraved hummingbird in teal vitreous glass enamel, set with diamonds and granule drops.
Tara Maria Famiglietti/Ondyn: “I love adorning women the most. Seeing a woman with incredible style, wearing my designs, and catching a glimpse of how she makes it her own, makes my heart sing.”
Diamond Bias Earrings.
Maggie Simpkins: “My favorite part about being a jewelry designer is that my jewels live on people’s bodies. I’m in awe of being able to create pieces that people can always wear and then pass on to those they love.”
Show here: Various different cuts of diamond rings.
Nadine Aysoy: “I feel amazed and emotional when I see a piece that came out of my imagination worn
and cherished by the people around me.”
Autumn Flower & Leaf Mismatch Earrings in 18K yellow gold, rubellite, orange, yellow and pink sapphires, green amethyst and diamonds.
Celine Daoust: “My constant desire is to create. It’s part of the journey to try, fail and learn and then discover what you couldn’t anticipate, which leads to evolving and perfecting with each new collection.”
14k light yellow gold Sun and Diamond Beams Locket Necklace with a made-to-fit labradorite. The locket can be open and the labradorite removed. There is an opening to the back of the locket for the labradorite to touch your skin.
Lizzie Mandler: “The power of jewelry is both timeless and time specific. It holds memories and emotions of specifc events and when it’s passed down to another wearer, it can take on a whole new life and meaning.”
Knife Edge Tennis Bracelet with alternating white diamond pavé in 18K yellow gold.
Marla Aaron: “My designs are based on form and functionality —hardware that has been reimagined into mechanical pieces of jewelry that reveal sentiment and meaning in people’s stories.”
Large Engraved Heartlock in 14K gold.
Jade Trau: “I’ve articulated what feels authentic to me as the business has grown. It’s a commitment to creating an edgy, relevant, and feminine riff on classic diamond jewelry.”
One-of- a-kind Scarlett ring in 18K yellow gold, and platinum, with pear shaped center diamond.
